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Saturday January 28th 2012

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Always In Style: Classic Peacoats

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You can’t go wrong with a classic double-breasted peacoat.

They come in all shapes, sizes, fabrics and price points. If the color is subtle and neutral, and the fit is on-point, it doesn’t get much better for an everyday coat.

Here I styled some of the peacoats from my closet for some everyday ideas.

1. Wine Wool

A deep wine can be treated as a neutral color and stands out from the sea of navy, grey and black.

Don’t be that guy who only wears brown shoes because it’s more “European”. Fight that a little. Black is sharp, tough and gritty.

When in doubt, play if safe with a simple white oxford, grey trouser and sharp wingtip.

Peacoat by Kennth Cole (M). Shirt by Band of Outsiders (3). Chinos by Michael Andrews Bespoke. Striped socks by Happy Socks. Leather/suede spectator wingtips by Barker Black. 

2. Naval Issue

Some of the best peacoats were commissioned by the military and issued to the naval academy. They were made from tough and rugged navy blue wool and were built to keep their shape through the toughest conditions.

The best part is, you can usually find a reasonably priced selection at just about any decent vintage store.

Bonus Tip: Whenever buying army or navy gear (and vintage most of the time) keep in mind that you may have to size down to get the fit you are looking for.

Bonus Tip II: Yes, you can wear it over a suit. As long as the coat is longer than the jacket, and it fits comfortably over the shoulders and midsection, it’s fair game.

Vintage military-issue peacoat (size 38). Corduroy suit and purple check shirt both by Michael Andrews Bespoke. Wool socks by Polo Ralph Lauren. Vintage tie. Wingtips by Scarpe di Bianco.  

3. Cotton Moleskin

Moleskin is tough, rugged and laid-back. A perfect jacket for a low key date, or a casual night out with friends.

Those wicked wingtips boots by Allen Edmonds again, as featured here.

Moleskin peacoat by Filipa K (50). Chambray shirt by Rag&Bone (M). Cardigan by Club Monaco (sample). Jeans by APC (new standard 32, tapered and cropped). Boots by Allen Edmonds. Shades by Matsuda Eyewear.

4. Leather

I’m typically not an impulse shopper, but when I saw this money green leather peacoat at the Hugo Boss outlet in my hometown, I had to scoop it.

It’s a classic peacoat but because of the fabric selection I’ve never seen one similar. It’s also a heavy leather with full wool lining which gives it parka-like warmth.

A dark green is also fairly neutral, it works with many other colors – blues, browns, beiges, burgundys, etc.

Bonus Tip: Don’t overthink the roll of your pant hem – it looks better natural and slightly unkept, especially with jeans.

Leather peacoat by Hugo Boss Selection (5). Shirt by Michael Andrews Bespoke. Jeans and socks by Polo Ralph Lauren. Loafers by Johnston & Murphy. Hand-knit scarf by Yokoo Scarves. Belt by Ralph Lauren Purple Label. Watch and brown alligator band by Montblanc. 

5. Plaid & Belted

Of course, not every peacoat is for everyday use. Sometimes they can serve as statement outerwear – a great refresher from the routine of navy, grey, brown and black outerwear.

Because the shape is timeless, it’s easier to incorporate details like a bolder plaid fabric, patch pockets and a belted waist.

Plaid wool peacoat by Polo Ralph Lauren (M). Beanie by JCrew. Gloves by Uniqlo. Jeans by JBrand (“Dylan”, 34). Suede wingtips by Bass. 

6. Down Puffer

Down coats aren’t all big and bulky anymore. This slim-fit, less-puffy down peacoat by Hugo Boss is cut from wool flannel suiting and is the perfect balance between dressy and casual. Available at select Nordstrom locations and online here.

 

Bonus Tip: An authentic fur scarf has a little edge to it, and makes everything else look a little more refined and elegant. More on this soon.

Bonus Tip II: UGG may or may not have earned a bad rap for those boots that we hate seeing girls wearing. However, these oiled and waterproofed leather alpine boots with Vibrim soles are tough. And their signature full-sheeepskin lining makes them the most comfortable boots in my collection, hands down.

Down peacoat by Hugo by Hugo Boss (M – available here). Fur scarf that my mother and I hamd-made from my late grandmother’s old fox fur coat. Jeans by JBrand (Kane, 32). Gloves by Boots by UGG Australia

 

Thanks, as always, for reading. Plenty more to come.

Yours in style,

SB

 

Photography by Alex Crawford and Wes Dimagiba

 

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40 Comments

  • Twin 1 says:

    Hey looking for that wine colored pea coat in first picture. How long ago did you pick it up?

  • Chris in phoenix says:

    Solid post Dan. I really like the cotton moleskin coat. Happy new year and best wishes in 2012!

  • GameRecognizeGame says:

    SB whats the trick to keep the collars up? Over time my collars have gradually declined and wont pop up like when I first bought it, could it also be when I dry clean my clothes the structural integrity of the collar is compromised? Thanks.

    • exhaze says:

      Cheaper shirts generally tend to use lower quality interfacing (the stuff inside of the collar to make it stiff). A way to remedy that is good metal collar stays. Also, ask your dry cleaners to use a bit of starch on the collars (not the entire shirt).

      • Anonymous says:

        thanks exhaze but i was referring to the collars in the peacoats unless thats why you were inferring, however i dont think i can put collar stays in a peacoat.

  • Anonymous says:

    What brand of shades does he have on in the first two pictures?

  • Anonymous says:

    What is the brand of the shades in the first and second pictures? I have been seeing them all kinds of tv shows and movies.

  • Will says:

    Hi SB,
    What are your thoughts on a black peacoat. I have yet to see you wearing one. Any objections to owning a black peacoat? Thank you.

    • SB says:

      I like navy more because it works with black or brown (or any other color) leathers – shoes, bags, watchbands, etc.

      Typically I try not to mix black and brown – although it can be done very tastefully.

      Best,
      Dan

      • Will says:

        Thank for your quick response. It’s not the first time I hear about not mixing black/brown. Why is this? Any logical reason that you know of? Thank you.

  • js says:

    what type of gloves are those?

  • Marcos says:

    I recently came across your blog and I just wanted to say I really dig your style. It confirms that I’ve been making many of the “right” choices. It also gives me some cool new ideas. I live in San Diego and viewing your pics almost makes me want to live somewhere where it gets cold in the winter! I can maybe wear a heavier coat on only the 10-20 nights per year it gets cold enough here. Anyway, I notice the majority of your jeans/pants are cropped or folded up. I think it looks cool on you. But I’m not sure I can rock it like you do. I tried folding up my slim fit jeans with my old wingtip boots (you’re right about more expensive shoes lasting “forever”!). Anyway, the woman in my life said “nope” when she saw it. She said it didn’t work on me. She’s 23 and very stylish and hip. I’m 45… yeah, yeah, I know; feel free to insert your own joke. For the record, I’m a young 45 and she’s a mature and very intelligent 23 year old. No, really! :-) Anyway, my point is, maybe it’s an age thing? So whataya think? A couple other attractive women friends in my life also said they thought the cropped or folded up thing didn’t work on me. I now have a bit of a complex about it!

    • SB says:

      What I want to say: Your 45 in San Diego dating a 23 year old. You’re winning! Haha. You should have the confidence to wear anything!

      What I should say: A cropped (or rolled) hem looks best on a slim guy with a “youthful” style. If your look/style is more “refined gentlemen” it will be more fitting with a plain hem, perhaps with a light break. Also, if more than a couple ladies have given you the same advice, they might be on to something. If you’re gonna try it anyway, perhaps keep it more subtle/simple.

      Thanks for reading.

      All the best to you,
      Dan

      • Marcos says:

        Haha. Thanks for the reply. I do have a fairly youthful style when not working. Not juvenile, but younger than my age. Most people think I’m 30-35 (depending on the lighting. Haha). Nonetheless, I am still 45. No getting around that. So, you’re right; If a hot, stylish girl gives me advice, I should take it. And my girlfriend does love me in slim jeans and boots. And for some reason she gets turned on when I wear a cardigan sweater. Go figure! Thanks again Dan.

        Continued success,

        MB

  • Jules says:

    By the way Mr Trepanier,

    http://nicetrybro.tumblr.com/

    Is hating on you for criss-crossing your laces in the first look – actually he features you quite a lot… strangely though never posts any pictures of what he’s wearing.

    • SB says:

      haha. gotta love your haters, they’re your biggest fans.

      Thx for reading,
      Dan

      • JHG says:

        SB,

        Maybe let the hater in on the fact that the criss-cross laces are a kind nod to the brand of the shoe and their imagery. Then tell him, “Oh yeah, you don’t own any Barkers so you have no way of knowing that. Sorry.”

        Brush ‘em off.

        • SB says:

          Ha. They do cross them in all their branding imagery.

          I’ll have to ask Derrick Miller. Perhaps he can touch on the point in an upcoming feature.

          Thanks Jeff,
          Dan

  • JJ says:

    The wine peacoat is great, I’ve been looking for something similar for a while. It’s one of my favorite colors to pop into my wardrobe.

  • EvanM says:

    Nice post Dan! That last look is mean! I guess I need to check out the men’s ugg boots. Those last ones were too fresh.

  • Michelle Z. from In the Stacks.tv says:

    You have the best style of any guy I’ve seen in a long time.

  • Jake says:

    That Hugo Boss down coat is awesome. Just picked it up online thanks to the link (hope youre geting commish!)

    Keep up the world class work Dan/SB

  • Jackson says:

    I would do terrible things for a pair of Barker Black shoes…

    Also love the green leather one – it’s one of these items you see on a rack and think “No way could you ever pull that together in an outfit” but apparently you can.

    • Jackson says:

      Hey Dan I also wanted to ask:

      Do you have any specific place to shop for socks or do you just stumble upon them in shops or online? I’ve been trying to find a single place to buy interesting socks for ages but to no avail.

  • Ambyr says:

    That wine colored peacoat is cool, looks great with the black shoes. I really LOVE that plaid and belted look too. The colors and print are very flattering on you. Such a great, bold print.

    xoxo
    http://www.thewrittenrunway.com

  • Dan says:

    Love the different looks Sir, as always right on the money. Not sure if they have been present before but the link to where you can buy the Hugo Boss coat was terrific, many thanks – picked it up and now looking for the Allen Edmonds boots as they are fierce.

    Thanks and all the best in 2012!

    Dan

  • cam says:

    Thanks for the post Dan. You need to bring back the ‘Category’ section on the Home Page. I liked being able to go back to the post for refreshers. I know you have the ‘Archives’ but it was much easier to find posts under the ‘Category’ section. Maybe place it on the right side underneath the ‘Recent Reader Comments’?

  • Dani says:

    Great Post! Cotton Moleskin is a favorite, casually dashing :)I love how the colors are perfectly balanced and create a simple yet handsome look!

    (And are those boots are really by UGG??? Who knew…!)

    http://chicalarusse.com/

  • Emanuel Iuhas says:

    I really like the 3rd one!
    Great post man, as always!
    Happy New Year!
    :D

  • Dorian says:

    THE BOOTS! Who would have thought that UGG’s can be so fabulous.

  • Arron says:

    That green Hugo boss coat is beyond sick. I had a ? About the navy peacoats, I have one from my grand father back when he was in the navy, same one as u have shown. Is there Anyway a tailor could fit it for me if it’s a little big or is it to difficult and expensive ?

  • TO says:

    Wine-colored peacoat is wicked. I definitely thought you couldn’t wear a peacoat over a suit, boy was I wrong. Puffer peacoat is sick.

    Funny, when I saw the fur scarf I immediately thought of making one from my late-grandmother’s fur coat hanging in my family closet. I’d think I’d need some help lol. You seem to have the best luck at that Boss location. I try to check it out for bargains whenever I’m in town without much luck usually. Am I missing a secret section there? Haha.

    It’s nice to see UGG breaking their own stereotype.

    Favorite post right now. So much sartorial goodness:)

  • MOZART5000 says:

    Instant classic post. The first and second look were just flawless.

  • Ricardo Javier says:

    Cotton Moleskin looks kinda chic! I like it. Nice post

  • Keaton says:

    My favorite has to be the Ralph Lauren plaid pea coat. I have to say that is the coolest and most unique version that I’ve ever seen. I wish there were some less expensive versions that are similar. Does anyone know of any? I especially like the pattern and the fact that it’s belted.

  • Cory says:

    Nice post. All very nice looks. I really like my Spiewak peacoat (black wool). It’s the warmest coat I own.