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Monday January 16th 2012

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Not-So-Traditional Tailoring featuring Nick Wooster

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Nick Wooster is a Manhattan based men’s fashion consultant, and one of my personal style icons – I don’t think I have seen anybody look tougher and more masculine in contemporary tailored clothing.

Labeled by GQ as an “Internet Superstar Fashion Director”, Wooster’s veteran fashion career began at Barney’s New York as a buyer and then onto the likes of Bergdorf Goodman, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, and John Bartlett where he became President. Most recently he held the title of Men’s Fashion Director for Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman.

In May of 2005, Nick began the successful Wooster Consultancy and has since worked with clients such as as Thom Browne, Mac Cosmetics, Chaiken Clothing, and most recently, Gilt Groupe.

Today, Nick has become a fashion icon and internet phenomenon where his unparalleled take on tailored menswear graces the pages of just about every men’s fashion blog.

A couple weeks ago we visited Nick near his Westside apartment to meet the man behind all those awesome photos, chat about the industry and the pros (and cons) of internet fashion stardom, and yes, take more pictures of him.

Here, Nick gives us a little insight behind what he’s into this summer.

1. Tailored Camo

“The last time I wore this jacket was when I was photographed in it…so it seemed like a good way to start.  I love the idea of subverting a beautifully tailored jacket in camo.  The fabric and fit are supreme, and I love the idea of a matching jacket and tie.”

Bonus Tip: Once you have the essentials (like fit, color coordination, confidence, etc) mastered, then you can become a man of great detail. I’m talking about things like a bandana as a pocket square, cargo shorts with a jacket and tie, a military inspired belt paired with camo, mismatched captoe/wingtip brogues, and an old school mustache curl to coincide with the unbuttoned collar point curl. As you can see, the man is no rookie.

Camo Jacket and tie by Michael Bastian. Blue oxfordcloth shirt and silver tie bar by Thom Browne. Bandana pocketsquare picked up at Nepenthes NY. Shorts by +J Uniqlo. Chino military belt by J. Crew. Mismatched brogue shoes by Trickers x Engineered Garments. Gold reflective aviators by Ray Ban.

2. Navy + Madras Cut Just Right

“For me, this deep indigo jacket is the perfect navy blazer for summer.  Up close it looks like denim, but it’s much lighter and softer.  It goes with just about anything, including dark denim jeans.”

Bonus Tip: Rugged textured fabrics, like the denim-like cotton here, make a tailored jacket more appropriate to wear casually.

“I also love the idea of a tie in shirting fabrics [madras, oxford cloth, chino, seersucker] during the summer.  For me, silk seems too dressy and weight inappropriate for the heat.”

Bonus Tip II: More guys seem to be okay with wool ties in the winter, than cotton or linen ones in the summer. Just another example of guys forgetting about their options come the warmer months. Don’t let your style go out the open window when it gets warm out.

“I also love the idea of a colored brogue [or wingtip].  If you wear tons of solid neutral colors, a really “off” color of a classic wingtip is a great way to create an instant look.  But I only recommend this if you already have the perfect black, light and dark brown brogues, first.”

Bonus Tip III: I agree. With a statement shoe, keep the majority of your look relatively neutral/classic in color. Also, green is a very underrated color for leathers – see my take on the green brogues here, and here.

Blue cotton linen denim jacket by Boglioli. White oxfordcloth shirt and red/white/blue tie bar by Thom Browne. University stripe oxfordcloth tie by Gitman Vintage. Madras shorts by Splendid Mills. British racing green brogues by Trickers.

3. A Little Leopard

“I love shades of khaki, and this is my spin. These pants are incredible…I want to wear them all of the time, and I wish I had them in shorts as well.  They may not be for everyone, but you could easily substitute the leopard for a camo, and the effect would be the same.”

Bonus Tip: When you see everybody doing it (like camo, for example), find a way to put your own spin on it – like this subtle “leopard” print in traditional camo colors for example.

Bonus Tip II: Again, the devil is in the details: mismatched brogues, 3 button with lapels rolled-to-the-2nd, oxford sleeves cut-off for the summer/ease of rolling, seersucker pocket square, tatoos peaking from under unbuttoned working cuffs (that Nick had cut himself).

“Left foot is a wingtip, right foot is a cap toe [yes, they are a pair].  This is my favorite shoe of the summer.”

Khaki jacket by Junya Watanbe x Brooks Brothers [I changed the buttons to gold and made the sleeve buttons functional]. Pink oxfordcloth shirt by Thom Browne. Leopard print trouser [in camo colors, brilliant] by Michael Bastian. Mismatched brogue shoes by Trickers x Engineered Garments.

4. Madras and Navy Cut-Off Just Right

“The minute I saw this jacket at the GANT Michael Bastian presentation, I had to own it.  For me, it’s the perfect summer jacket that will go with everything – a pair of jeans, chinos, shorts, seersucker, just about anything, except another madras plaid.”

Bonus Tip: Navy and madras just works. This look is similar to the 2nd, but flipped.

Bonus Tip II: All things in proportion: like pinstripe wool trousers cut just-right into shorts, and a smaller, sleeker bow tie.

Plaid jacket by GANT Michael Bastian. Blue oxfordcloth shirt by Thom Browne. Navy repp bow tie by Rugby Ralph Lauren. Tropical pin stripe trousers, hacked off by me, by J. Crew. Belt with washed brass plaque by Rugby Ralph Lauren. Navy suede brogue shoes by Church’s [I switched out the laces to white]. Sunglasses by GANT Michael Bastian.

5. Shark Attack

“For me this is the perfect thing to wear to a summer evening wedding.  It’s dressed up with a sense of humor [I hope].”

Bonus Tip: The sharp lines and monochromatic palette make this look badass, perfectly complimented by the whimsical cropped trousers.

On Nick: Charcoal tropical suit jacket, Charcoal tropical tie, White oxfordcloth shirt, Grey corduroy trouser with shark embroidery, Tie bar and Black longwing brogue shoes all by Thom Browne. On Dan: Bib-front band collar shirt by Hugo Boss. Linen trousers by Zara. White rope as double belt. Tortoise shades by Matsuda. Tortoise watch from my gf’s closet. Needlepoint slippers by Stubbs & Wooton.

Thanks, as always, for reading – and special thanks to Nick for participating!

More awesome features to come.

Yours in style,

SB

Photography by Brent Eysler.

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51 Comments

  • Ahmad Hardy says:

    Thanks for the great info, it will really help with a few decisions I have to make down the road.

  • Anonymous says:

    how tall is nick wooster

  • Joey Dee says:

    Madras and Navy Cut-Off; this is my favorite, along with his haircut, so polished punk.

  • EB says:

    Thanks Dan. Another great article!
    Love Nick Wooster. Here is some of my favorite pictures of him: http://www.manspiration.dk/?p=1428

  • Maurice says:

    Dan,

    You mentioned that Nick Wooster is one of your style icons. In addition to Nick, who else do you look up for inspiration?

    Maurice

  • DCRob says:

    Good shit! Making Esquire pages with your Nick Wooster post!

  • Mountain Dandy says:

    I am loving these guys with style that have a little edge to them.

  • Jonathan says:

    did you ask him wear he got his mustache from?

  • john says:

    You should do more features like this. Maybe future ones with Thom Browne, Michael Bastian, Simon Spurr etc. You could make this work no doubt.

  • Anonymous says:

    I like his style

  • April says:

    I looooooooooove Nick!

  • Kip says:

    I’ve always loved being on the street and suddenly seeing Nick coming & going. The season doesn’t matter; he will always impress you with what he has put together. Several times I’ve wanted to smack my own head when I have seen him in pieces that I own and never thought to mix as he does.

    Dan, this was a great catch.

  • TO says:

    The second last shot is so awesome and then BAM next shot Wooster pulls a lit cigarette out of his pocket- now that’s why he’s considered so badass hahaa

  • Jeff says:

    Is this a subliminal advertisement paid for by all the tobacco companies?

  • B says:

    How tall is Nick Wooster?

  • Anonymous says:

    Personally, I never think adult males look appropriate in short pants. No matter how much they try to dress up the top half of themselves.

  • Gabe says:

    The features just get better and better. Keep em’ coming. Wooster is an inspiration to try new (ballsier) things. Great post.

  • Mr. Andy says:

    Amazing.

  • Laurence says:

    SB What are the size of the cuff on the last pant?

  • Kerry Graham says:

    I’ve followed Nick’s stuff for a while. He pulls off some of the most amazing looks. I wish I had his and Dan’s talent for putting together great outfits.
    Great article!

  • Alex Wilson says:

    Nick Wooster smokes whenever and wherever he wants.

  • Coro says:

    Wooster has crazy swag.. Great article

  • VB says:

    As I am turning 40 next month, I look the the “Wooster” as proof that one can stay cool, current and stylish without looking foolish!

  • Al says:

    This guy RUNS the men’s style game! What a feature!

  • DCRob says:

    My style inspiration. Nick is the boss of the industry. Much respect, Dan.

  • Akshay says:

    I don’t think I necessarily like or agree with a lot of Nick Wooster’s choices, but one thing is clear: the man has an incredible presence. He just pulls it off, and has confidence & attitude to boot.

  • Bosun says:

    His fashion sense is very unique and interesting, cool. I am also a fan of your slippers in picture 5.

    http://www.thetastelevel.com/

  • Mojo says:

    Excellent feature, some cool looks! I was wondering how tall Nick is? I always find it difficult to find sports coats that fit, they are always too long in the sleeve. All the ones here have working sleeves, even one that has been converted! Is Nick just lucky to find brands that fit him right, or were these tailored to fit? Thanks for the brilliant content.

  • Miguel Ramalhão says:

    Nick Wooster … Rocks… I love his style…

  • dish says:

    I don’t know if I like the shorts and blazer look, but Nick Wooster’s style is undeniably unique and interesting. By any chance, do you know what kind of watches he was wearing?

  • Vinogram says:

    FUCK YEAH NICK WOOSTER!

  • Jonathan Charles says:

    Not sure I’d wear any of the looks, but he’s definitely rocking them! Probably a bit ‘out there’ for me ATM.

  • Emanuel Iuhas says:

    OMG!!!Such a…gorgeous/courageous/fabulous/etc etc man!
    His style is like the “Wish list” for Christmas!
    I love you man,congrats & thanks!!!

    Emanuel Iuhas
    Visual Merchandiser/Fashion blogger
    http://www.modasicevamaimult.blogspot.com

  • Min Kim says:

    A picture tells more than thousands words.
    Loved this new posting!

  • Zachary Gray says:

    This is great. That man’s style is endless. So is his closet!

    -Zach (http://thesecondhandmankc.com)

  • john says:

    Awesome. Simply awesome. Nick Wooster is the man. Look 1 is killer. This guy knows how to dress.

    Another great post. Keep up the good work.

  • Anonymous says:

    I’m not really a fan of the thom browne look, but this is definitely cool

  • Al says:

    Get the Burkman Bros to do a spread on here, and you would have captured all my style idols: Wooster, Crangi, and the Burkman Bros. Bravo.

  • Anonymous says:

    Love his tops, but the bottom pieces always seem to throw me off. But that’s just my personal opinion.

  • mick swagger says:

    Dan,

    This is the reason I frequent you blog.
    Great interview and very insightful!

    -MS

  • Maurice says:

    Another interesting and insightful post. I always wondered who Nick was and what he was about. Now I know! Thanks.

  • Salomon says:

    Nick is an awesome style inspiration. Makes you just step out of your box. Great post Dan, and great job on seeking out Mr Wooster for the website.

  • Jeff says:

    Great feature TSB team! Wooster, like you, Dan, is a wonderful example of mixing traditional and non traditional menswear pieces to create a personalized look. I didn’t know Wooster was such a Thom Brown fan either!

    Great work as always.

    http://www.LookYoungSpeakOld.tumblr.com